Photo credit: Suzanne Rommelfanger
Love at First Bite: Falling for Plov in Uzbekistan
From Home Kitchens to Wedding Feasts, Plov Tells Uzbekistan’s Story
Plov is the national dish of Uzbekistan. Interestingly, Plov, or Pilaf, is an acronym in which each letter represents an ingredient: water, rice, onion, oil, and carrot. Plov is at the heart of every family, every community, and every marriage in Uzbekistan. Accordingly, there are three kinds of Plov:
- the family Plov, made in households across the country every week,
- the community recipe, shared at local gatherings, which can vary across regions,
- and a special celebratory wedding Plov.
I fell in love with Plov on a cool November day in Bukhara. Hearty, comforting, and deeply flavorful, it was the perfect dish for the season – served at Doston House, a welcoming family-run restaurant where tradition is part of the recipe. This multi-generational home not only serves plov but celebrates it, offering hands-on cooking lessons followed by a generous feast of classic Uzbek dishes. We arrived to the scent of simmering spices in the open-air courtyard, where our host – shared the story of the kitchen’s legacy. His mother was the first to cook when the restaurant opened, followed by his wife, and now the next generation carries the torch. That evening, it was his eldest son who guided us through each step of the plov-making process, with warmth, skill, and pride.
Prep time – 40 minutes
cook time – 20 minutes
This beloved dish is built in layers, and like any good story, each one matters.
Start with a generous pour of oil—apricot, sunflower, or sesame, though olive oil will do in a pinch. In a heavy-bottomed pan, add the sliced onions, julienned carrots, and your choice of meat—beef or lamb are traditional. Cover with a lid and let everything simmer gently, filling the kitchen with rich, savory aromas.
Next come the spices: our host used a custom blend of 15! You can improvise with cumin, coriander, black pepper, paprika, and a pinch of turmeric. Season with salt to taste. Then tuck in whole garlic cloves, a handful of chickpeas, and a scattering of raisins for a touch of sweetness.
Now add the rice. Spread it over the top, pat it flat, and pour in boiling water until it just covers the rice. Do not stir. Instead, shape the rice into a soft dome and poke a few steam holes with the handle of a wooden spoon. Cover again and cook until the rice is fluffy and tender.
Time for the taste test – adjust the salt or spices if needed, then plate it up with care. For a finishing touch, quail eggs can be added just before serving.
This was our first Plov experience, but luckily not the last. We were able to share another memorable and delicious plov at the beautiful Rabat Guest House in Samarkand. This one was slightly different, served with lamb instead of beef, and garnished with lemon. We also had an opportunity to see huge quantities of plov being prepared and served at the local bazaar in Tashkent.
Beyond the love of good food, what makes this national treasure truly unforgettable is the company you share it with. In Uzbekistan, every meal felt like a celebration of connection. After each shared plate of plov, strangers became friends. The people we met were unfailingly warm, welcoming, and generous—and I left every encounter with a full belly and an even fuller heart.
Hungry for more than just a meal? Start planning your journey to Uzbekistan.
