Belgrade for Beginners: What to See & Do in Serbia's Charismatic Capital

Long overlooked by many modern-day travelers, Serbia’s capital Belgrade is one of the largest and most important cities in the Balkans. Once troubled by violent conflicts following the breakup of the former Yugoslavia, the city has since shrugged off the shadows of its tumultuous past to re-emerge as one of Europe’s hippest and most happening hubs of urban cool.  

With a youthful population, Belgrade is well known for its edgy and exuberant nightlife. But look beyond the boisterous bars and you’ll find a fascinatingly complex and creative capital waiting to be discovered. Remnants of Belgrade’s past rulers are scattered across the city, from ancient Roman ruins to grand art nouveau buildings designed during the reign of the Hapsburgs. Neighborhoods abound with trendy boutiques and outdoor eateries, and the laid-back café culture, burgeoning artistic and cultural scene, and freewheeling sociable atmosphere all add to the city’s irresistible charms.

With its vibrant history and energy, Belgrade makes a great place to begin or end a journey through the Balkans. But since tourists are just beginning to hear the buzz about Belgrade, the time to go there is now — before the masses arrive.

Ramble Through Roman Ruins at Kalemegdan

One of the highlights of Belgrade is its ancient citadel, Kalemegda – a name bestowed by the Turks meaning “fortress amid battlefields.” Originally founded by the Celts in the 3rd century BC, the fortress offers incredible insights into Belgrade’s layered past.

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More than 100 battles were fought here, and the fortress was destroyed and rebuilt more than 40 times. Today the citadel includes what is left of Celtic and Roman Singidunum and the Byzantine, Turkish, and Austro-Hungarian fortifications that followed. The Despot Gate and the Roman Well are found in the fortress’ Upper Town, and the 18th century Turkish baths in the Lower.

While you’re walking about Kalemegdan, be sure to head to one of the lookout points on the fortress walls. Here you can catch unmatched views of the Sava and Danube Rivers, perfect for a sunrise or sunset photo op.

Admire the Awe-inspiring Scale of the Church of St. Sava

The monumental Church of St. Sava is the world’s second largest Orthodox church. Begun in 1935 over the spot where St. Sava’s remains were burned in 1595, the white marble and granite edifice can seat nearly 11,000 worshipers. The church’s huge central dome, which weighs an estimated 4,000 tons, was finally lifted into place in 1989 — it took 40 days for specially constructed hydraulic machines to set it on top of the church.

Wars and economic strife have frequently interrupted its construction, setting projects for the interior design back decades with the church nearing completion roughly 85 years after it was initiated. The interior contains some 17,000 square meters of Murano glass mosaics and frescoes.

Stroll the Spirited Streets of Skadarlija

Skadarlija is the bohemian quarter of Belgrade and has often been compared with Paris’ Montmartre district. Originally called the Gypsy Quarter, this romantic cobbled neighborhood became the center of bohemian life in the 1900s when writers and artists used to hang out all night in the local taverns and cafés. The area had numerous inns that played host to many of Serbia’s best-loved authors and actors.

Today, Skadarlija is a vibrant and busy area filled with shops, coffee houses, traditional restaurants, and street musicians. It’s a great place to go for an evening stroll, linger over a hearty meal, and catch a creative performance while you soak up the spirit of Old Belgrade.

Discover the Legacy of Legendary Tito

Josip Broz Tito, the infamous communist and revolutionary statesman, served as leader of a united Yugoslavia from 1944 until his death in 1980. Simultaneously praised and despised in Serbian history, his lasting influence can still be seen throughout the city.

Tito’s mausoleum, called the “House of Flowers,” is set in the winter garden complex near his former home in Belgrade. Built in 1975, the House of Flowers was designed as a retreat for the Yugoslav leader, who was buried here according to his wishes in 1980. Attached to the mausoleum is the fascinating Museum of Yugoslav History, a must for those interested in the tumultuous history of the Balkans.

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Beneath Belgrade’s posh Topcider district is a hidden nuclear bunker ordered by Tito in 1948, the year Yugoslavia broke with Joseph Stalin. Concerned about a retaliatory nuclear attack, Tito built several bunkers across the country. This one was rediscovered by the public in 2004. A nearly 200-foot elevator descends to a six-story underground complex of more than a square mile.

Unleash Your Inner Scientist at the Nikola Tesla Museum

Belgrade’s Nikola Tesla Museum is dedicated to the inventor and visionary renowned for his work with electromagnetism and his role in furthering the science of electricity, robotics, radar, and theoretical physics. An ethnic Serb born in what is now Croatia, Tesla became an American citizen and worked for Thomas Edison for a time.

The museum contains books, original documents, photos, and technical exhibits from Tesla’s collections, as well as his cremated remains, which are housed in a golden “Tesla ball”-shaped urn.

Head For the Hip Hangouts Along Knez Mihailova

Knez Mihailova is the pedestrianized main thoroughfare in the Old Town, and one of the most popular hubs for Belgrade locals. Stretching almost 2/3 of a mile from the Kalemegdan Fortress to the Palata Albanija, the street is lined with numerous cafés, restaurants, trendy boutiques, and galleries, as well as dozens of restored art nouveau landmarks and ornate mansions from the late 1870s.

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Many of the city’s best art and cultural centers are located here and host regular exhibitions and concerts free and open to the public, including the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts, the Serbian Association of Fine Arts, and the Goethe-Institut. Street performers and amateur artists often arrive in the late afternoon and evening hours, adding to the swirl of Belgrade’s vibrant, edgy street life.

Taste Traditional Fare in Belgrade’s Taverns

Serbian cuisine is just as delightfully dynamic as its history, and the best way to savor it is at one of the city’s old-school kafane, or taverns. Brimming with hearty and inexpensive dishes, kafane are the way to go when you need to fill up after a long day of walking around the city.

Grilled meats, called rostilj, make a common appearance on kafane menus. If you happen to be a meat lover, you won’t want to miss out on one of Serbia’s signature dishes – cevapi or cevapcici, a plate piled with juicy, flavorful sausages made from pork, beef, or lamb served with flatbread and a clotted cream-like condiment known as kaymak. Cabbage and beans are also beloved throughout the country and make their way into homey dishes like pasulj, a smoky Balkan bean stew, and Serbian cabbage rolls called sarma.

You’ll find excellent kafane all across Belgrade, but one of our favorites is the famous ? (“Upitnik”) Kafana, the oldest in the city. Built in 1823, the tavern was originally named after a nearby church that took offense at the booze-filled tavern making reference to a house of God. The owner put a question mark on the tavern’s signage as a temporary solution while the dispute was being resolved, but the quirky name stuck and has been used ever since.

Board a Helicopter to Uvac Canyon

For something truly unique, climb aboard a helicopter and get a bird’s-eye view of the steep-sided, meandering Uvac Canyon just outside Belgrade. Named one of the Seven Serbian Wonders of Nature in 2008, the curvy canyon wanders among limestone cliffs that reach up to 1,000 feet above the river.

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The canyon is surrounded by some 18,000 acres of protected area, which support a recovering population of griffon vultures with wingspans of up to 10 feet. Two caves boast rich ecosystems left by water dripping from the limestone, with stalactites, columns, and stalagmites.

MIR has over three decades of Balkans travel experience with on-the-ground support, guides, and tour managers that clients rave about. MIR’s full service, dedication, commitment to quality, and destination expertise have twice earned us a place on National Geographic Adventure’s list of “Best Adventure Travel Companies on Earth.”

It’s easy to add a visit to Belgrade before or after our Balkans tours, or incorporate it into any independent trip to the Balkans. MIR specializes in personalized, private journeys, and we’d love to take your ideas and weave them into a trip tailored especially for you!

Here are four ways to explore Belgrade and beyond with MIR:

• Balkan Odyssey: Crossroads of Cultures – small group tour. This overland journey ties together seven of the wildly divergent Balkan countries, Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Kosovo, Macedonia, Montenegro, and Serbia.
• Essential Balkans – a private, independent trip, traveling on your own dates using our itinerary of the seven Balkan countries.
• A Rail Journey – Stop for a day tour in Belgrade aboard a rail journey by private train on the Venice to Istanbul by Private Train departure.
• Your handcrafted, private itinerary – customized to your dates, interests and pace. Travel wherever, however and with whomever you like, relying on our expert assistance.