MIR Corporation's Travel Log:
Trans-Siberian Railway - Days 1-2: Moscow

MIR clients Helge Pedersen and Karen Ofsthus ride the rails of the fabled Trans-Siberian Railway from Moscow to UlaanBaatar on MIR's Trans-Siberian private rail journey as they check in from each stop with stories, photos and video.

• Days 1-2: Moscow
• Day 3: Moscow, Aboard Train
• Day 4: Kazan
• Day 5: Ekaterinburg
• Days 6-7: Novosibirsk, Aboard train
• Days 8-9: Lake Baikal, Irkutsk
• Day 10: Ulan Ude
• Days 11-12: UlaanBaatar

July 1-2, 2008

Our trip to the Russian Far East finally begins! After a long flight from Seattle, my husband, Helge, and I boarded flight 1384 in Frankfurt, Germany, on our way to Moscow and the first step on our journey through Russia, Siberia and Mongolia, aboard the Trans-Siberian Railway. Our excitement was not daunted by the fact that our plane was an hour late leaving the tarmac... something about a part needing to be replaced. The delay gave me my first solid impressions of Russian people: they are immensely patient. An hour delay may have incited Americans to complain. We're a fast-food, sound-byte society after all. Not a peep of complaint, however, was heard from the majority of Russians filling the plane. I was impressed. Sharing my row of seating was a nuclear inspector and a young Russian man with a square jaw, an easy smile, and a love of whiskey. He spoke little English and I not a lick of Russian, but it didn't matter. A few simple words here and there and some clever hand signs, and we were 'chatting' away like old friends.

Upon our arrival in Moscow, I was reminded again of the Russian's ability to take it all in stride. You see, exhausted from a lack of sleep during the long flights, I woefully neglected to collect our toiletry bag from under my seat. I realized my faux-paux just as we left the parking lot, having been promptly collected by Rashid, our lovely driver booked for us by MIR. He had already waited for our late arrival, and now I'm asking him to return to the airport to get that bag. Who cares about a stupid toiletry bag you say? I do. It contained my prescription medication. You can leave eyeglasses on the plane or even your book. You may even leave (accidentally of course), your kid on the plane, screaming its head off in seat 13C. But your prescription medication? Never! Ever-patient Rashid. Turn around he did.

Moscow leaves nothing to be desired. Beautiful forests of pine and birch line the highway as we made our way to the gorgeous Peter 1 Hotel, located in the heart of Moscow, and only a 7 minute walk from Red Square. The following morning, MIR staff and trusty guides, Tatiana Voevodina and John Seckel, meet us for a walking tour of the city. I thought the lean and long-legged Massai of Kenya were built for walking! They haven't met Tatiana! The easy-going mother of three lives in the heart of Moscow and its imprint is imbedded on the soles of her feet. Every back-road and cool, cobblestoned street; she knows it. Every historical building, hidden Orthodox church or corner shop with great ice-cream; she knows it. And nobody, I say nobody, can cross the River Road highway like Tatiana!

Picture this: 8 lanes of gnarly traffic, whizzing by at break neck speed. We need to get across for a beautiful view of the Moscow river and surrounding area. Tatiana takes off across the highway, timing the breaks in traffic with the precision of a Nascar driver. Helge, John and I follow her like ducklings traipsing after their mother, (rather blindly I might add), to the center of the highway. Traffic whizzes by just inches behind and in front of us. Can't go forward. Can't go back. Can't go forward... until Tatiana spots a lull in oncoming traffic and we make a break for it. Whew! We lurch safely to the other side of the highway, sweating just a little. I rather liked the excitement of it all. But here's the kicker. Climbing to the top of the River Road bridge amidst spectacular views of the city, Tatiana cautions against my going overboard as I sit along the wide edge of the cement bridge, ready for a photo op. She's not particularly worried about whether or not I would survive the 120 foot drop. Instead, she's worried that IF I were to fall... "the water is dirty... very, very dirty" she says. I had to laugh. Putting the dreaded River Road highway aside, sweet Tatiana IS looking out for our best interest after all.

Red Square is immense and utterly beautiful. Granite cobblestones cover the grounds between the red brick buildings of the Historical Museum and walls of the Kremlin, Lenin's Tomb, the G.U.M. shopping pavilion and St. Basil's Church. Built in 1564, St. Basil's Russian Orthodox Church stands as the iconic image of Russia. Ice cream cone shaped spires painted gaily in swirling red, yellow, green, peach and gold reach toward a cloudless sky-their tippy-tops adorned with massive golden crosses. It looks like something you would see in a fairy tale book or on a gingerbread house display. The church is gorgeous and we can't help but stare and wonder how in the world they maintain this ancient building so impeccably. It's apparent there's a lot of loving care that goes into its upkeep... Muscovites are proud of this magical building.

Touring the sites in Red Square is a must. John and I hit Lenin's tomb, and I must say, it was just a tad bit funny. John is a Wisconsin transplant. As an AFS student, he came to Russia, and couldn't work hard enough or fast enough to return after a year with his Russian host family. He's been here 11 years and has been working with MIR for the last several. His speaks impeccable Russian, has a good heart and thank goodness, a wicked sense of humor!

We wait in line for a viewing of Lenin. A respectful walk to the entrance of the tomb, you notice that there are guards posted everywhere, proud in their forest green uniforms. Negotiating the steps into the tomb was a challenge. Shiny black marble lined the steps and walls and the pathway was gloomily lit. "Oops"...bumped into a guard... "Sorry", I whisper... "Shush", says the guard. John and I are giggling quietly because we can't see a thing as we stumble down the stairs. I couldn't help but think that in the U.S. this would be a lawsuit waiting to happen. We could barely see six inches in front of our face but had to keep moving. Those guards are serious and you don't wanna make them mad. I hear another "Shush", but this one was directed at some other poor people blinded by the darkness.

We finally make our way to where Lenin lies in wait and I'm thinking, "Hmmm... he looks pretty good for a dead guy." I stop for a micro-nanosecond and Snap-Snap-Snap!--the guard in the corner keeps us moving. There will be no stopping, slowing, or pausing in the tomb. John and I shuffle our feet, trying to keep moving to both placate the guard with the castanet fingertips and get a good look at Lenin. I notice his impeccable beard trim and skin that looks like alabaster. His skin practically glows under the light illuminating his body. Apparently a special organization took responsibility for preparing the body and they did a great job. Lenin has been lying here for about 80 years. I also notice the one hand is lying palm down while the other is closed in a fist. I'm thinking there must be a reason for this, as it looks so deliberate. I discover later that according to Rashid, our trusty driver and Russian historian, a woman attempted to assassinate Lenin. She shot him with bullets laced with poison, (as if the bullets wouldn't do the job). While she didn't succeed in killing him, he was hit in the hand by three bullets and their poisoned tips caused paralysis. Thus, Lenin had a paralyzed hand that remains closed even in death. John and I determined that at the most, we experienced a total of six seconds of Lenin viewing. What, with the antsy guards snap-snap-snapping away, expecting any more would have been preposterous. It didn't matter. We observed a lot, had fun together and it was free. At least I can say I've been though Lenin's tomb. Next time I'm going to bring a mini-mag flashlight to light my way. I'll bet the guards will just love that!

Moscow is a dream. We look forward to a few more activities in this vibrant city and to meeting our tour group this evening. Soon, we'll be aboard the train and on our way eastbound toward Mongolia! Stay posted!

Photos from this leg of the tour:

Perched atop Moscow River bridge brings beautiful views		A tiny Russian Orthodox church near Red Square
Artisans abound in colorful Moscow!		A practical Porta-Potty office!
Gaily painted St. Basil's Church		Ornate lion head door-knocker
Lively activity in Red Square		A red screaming man-baby. We couldn't figure this out!
St. Basil's church glows under beautiful lighting in Red Square		A local Kentucky-fried chicken establishment perhaps?

A slideshow with more photos from this leg of the tour:

To start the Slideshow, click once within the frame above, then click the PLAY button at the left of the menu bar. You may also slide your mouse pointer along the timeline to view individual photos.